第2區(巴黎塞納河右岸第一區之上):蒙托格伊路[1](Rue Montorgueil)巴黎最古老的拱廊街全景拱廊街 Passage des Panoramas,弗魯瓦拱廊街(Passage
Jouffroy),巴黎證券交易所,Boulevard Montmartre,名餐廳L'Escargot(38號)
第3區(北瑪黑區):小中國城,畢卡索美術館(Musée Picasso),
第4區(瑪黑區):巴黎市政廳(Hôtel de Ville)巴士底廣場(Place de la Bastille,4,11,12區)巴黎塞納河右岸與第一區接鄰:聖路易島,巴黎市政廳,孚日廣場Place des Vosges、龐畢度中心(Centre
Georges-Pompidou)
第5區(拉丁區):巴黎最古老的街區,伏爾泰、沙特、海明威常待的咖啡廳,索邦大學Sorbonne
Université
第6區:盧森堡公園,奧賽博物館(又譯奧塞博物館、奧塞美術館Musée d'Orsay),羅丹美術館(Musée Rodin)
第7區:艾菲爾鐵塔(La Tour Eiffel,也稱巴黎鐵塔),傷兵院(L'hôtel des Invalides-Napoleon's Tomb),萬神殿教堂,波旁宮(Palais Bourbon),拉賽宮(Hôtel de Lassay)
第8區:香榭麗舍大道,大皇宮(Grand Palace),凱旋門(Arc de triomphe de l'Étoile),凱旋門234階階梯,戴高樂廣場(Place Charles de Gaulle),協和廣場(Place de la
Concorde),法國海軍部,巴黎麗思飯店(Hôtel Ritz Paris),方尖碑(Obelisk),旺多姆大飯店(Hôtel de Vendôme),蒙田大街(Avenue Montaigne)奧斯曼大道(Boulevard Haussmann,8,9區),瘋馬(Crazy horse),
第9區:春天百貨(Printemps),老佛爺百貨公司(Galeries Lafayette Haussmann),巴黎歌劇院(加尼葉歌劇院Opéra
Garnier)
第10區:巴黎東站和巴黎北站,聖馬丁運河
第11區:Le perchoir露天酒吧
第12區:拉雪茲神父公墓(Cimetière du Père-Lachaise)Gare de Lyon里昂火車站
第13區:巴黎最大中國城,鵪鶉之丘Butte Aux Cailies
第14區:蒙帕納斯(Quartier du Montparnasse),蒙帕納斯公墓(Cimetière du Montparnasse),地下墓園博物館
第15區:蒙帕納斯大樓,巴黎蒙帕納斯站(Gare de Paris-Montparnasse)
第16區:在塞納河和布洛涅森林(Bois de Boulogne)之間:夏樂宮(Palais de Chaillot)豪華住宅區
第17區:巴黎高級住宅區,蒙索公園parc monceau
第18區:蒙馬特藝術村,紅磨坊(Moulin rouge),聖心聖殿(Basilique du Sacré-Cœur)俯瞰整個巴黎城市景色
第19區:唐人街,belleville巴黎第二大的中國城,
拉雪兹公墓Père-Lachaise Cemetery (比才、羅西尼、巴爾扎克、王爾德、蕭邦)
第20區:巴黎住宅區,belleville公園,
不分區:塞納河(Seine),里沃利路(Rue de Rivoli),左岸(La Rive Gauche),左岸咖啡les 3 Mailletz、和平咖啡館、花神咖啡館、le caveau des oubliettes(地牢的墓穴)、café du
Petit Pont(小橋咖啡)、le Select(選擇)、La closerie des Lilas(丁香莊園)、「café de Flore」(花季咖啡)、les Deux Magots(雙偶)等。下水道之旅
郊區:新凱旋門(Grande Arche,意為「大拱門」),
大巴黎地區
凡爾賽宮(Château de
Versailles)
楓丹白露宮(Château de
Fontainebleau)
2005年
2005年,我帶著一群滿懷青春好奇的學生,乘坐歐洲之星來到巴黎參訪。走下火車的那一刻,記憶的閘門忽然打開——這不是我第一次踏上這片土地。早在英國進修的歲月裡,我也曾獨自造訪巴黎。那時候,照相並不普遍,僅有的幾張泛黃的照片,早已在多次搬家後消失無蹤。如今,得以藉由帶領學生的契機,重新徜徉這座城市,在時光與記憶的縫隙間,拾回那未曾留下的影像。
這是一週的巴黎行程,每一天都有不同的風景與心境。
第一天,我們從艾菲爾鐵塔開始,拾級而上,俯瞰整座城市如展開的畫卷。夜幕降臨,鐵塔閃爍的燈光成為迎接我們的第一份禮物。
第二天,走進羅浮宮,玻璃金字塔下的倒影閃耀,古典與現代交錯,提醒著文明的延續。學生們流連於達文西與米開朗基羅的畫前,而我心底想起多年前那短暫卻深刻的初訪。
第三天,來到奧賽博物館,印象派的光影與色彩震撼了學生們的眼睛。午後,我們轉入羅丹美術館,在《思想者》前久久佇立,感受藝術的凝重與生命的深思。
第四天,我們走過塞納河兩岸,橋影與水波低語,河畔的舊書攤散發著紙張與歲月的氣息。巴黎聖母院的尖塔聳立天際,鐘聲迴盪在心底。拉丁區的咖啡館裡,學生們小聲討論,索邦大學門口的人潮,讓我們看見知識的自由氣息。
第五天,行至先賢祠,向那些長眠於此的靈魂致意;在榮軍院,瞻仰拿破崙的石棺,歷史的厚重壓在胸口。午後,走過香榭麗舍大道,登上凱旋門,眼前的繁華與榮光一覽無遺。傍晚時分,學生們在杜樂麗花園和盧森堡公園放聲嬉笑,青春與花影相映成趣。
第六天,我們探訪了龐畢度藝術中心的前衛建築,感受現代藝術的張力;在協和廣場,歷史的刀光血影似乎仍隱約浮現。部分學生興致盎然地走進巴黎地下墓穴,幽暗甬道裡排列的白骨,使人既顫慄又沉思。夜晚,我們登上蒙馬特高地的聖心堂,夕陽餘暉灑落,街頭藝人拉著手風琴,歌聲與微風一同輕輕吹進心裡。
第七天,換上輕鬆的心情,我們走進紅磨坊,一睹這座百年歌舞劇院的華麗外觀,它的紅色風車仍在不停地旋轉,象徵著巴黎的浪漫與放縱。午後,學生們在老佛爺百貨公司流連,那裡不僅是購物天堂,更像一座藝術殿堂,彩繪玻璃穹頂下,精品名店雲集,香奈兒、迪奧、路易威登等散發著各自的風采。街道兩旁櫥窗陳列,時尚的巴黎氣息撲面而來,學生們興奮地穿梭其間,感受這座城市另一種奢華與自信。
當旅程的最後,我們搭乘塞納河遊船,巴黎的燈火倒映在河水中。學生們興奮地拍照,而我則靜靜凝視這片熟悉又陌生的景色。那一刻,我彷彿與多年以前的自己重逢——那個背著簡單行囊、懷抱夢想的年輕人。
巴黎,不僅是一座城市,更是一部翻不盡的詩卷。它在2005年,透過我的學生們的眼睛,再一次為我展開,也讓我在時光的回聲裡,讀見了過去與現在交錯的自己。
Returning to France with an Art-Loving Friend
與熱愛藝術的朋友重返法國
Every time I visit France, I leave with the same thought: I must return and see it again.
My first two visits were study tours with my students. As their teacher and group leader, I had to pay attention to schedules, transportation, accommodation, and everyone’s safety. We travelled from one famous attraction to another, taking photographs and listening to short introductions, but everything passed before my eyes too quickly. France was beautiful, yet I could only catch a hurried glimpse of it.
I saw the Eiffel Tower(艾菲爾鐵塔), the River Seine(塞納河), the Louvre Museum(羅浮宮), the Palace of Versailles(凡爾賽宮), and the magnificent streets of Paris(巴黎). However, there was never enough time to stand quietly before a painting, observe the details of a sculpture, or understand the history hidden behind an old building.
Those journeys left me with many beautiful memories, but also a sense of incompleteness. France seemed like a great book from which I had read only a few pages. Each time I departed, I hoped that one day I could return without being hurried from place to place.
This time, I came to France with a friend who has a deep love for art. Travelling with her completely changed the way I experienced the country. We no longer treated museums as places where we simply had to see the most famous masterpieces and then rush away. We allowed ourselves to slow down, look carefully, and feel the atmosphere of each place.
Before visiting an artwork or historical site, she would study its background—the period in which it was created, the life of the artist, the political situation, and the ideas represented in the work. She did not merely remember names and dates. She tried to understand why an artist chose a particular subject, why certain colours were used, and how the work reflected the society of its time.
At the Louvre Museum, she guided my attention beyond the most celebrated works. Instead of looking only at the Mona Lisa(《蒙娜麗莎》), we observed the arrangement of the figures, the movement of light and shadow(光影), the expressions on their faces, and the stories hidden within the paintings. She explained how religious faith, royal authority, revolution, and changing social values influenced French art.
She shared with me the long transformation from medieval art to the Renaissance(文藝復興), from the splendour of the Baroque period(巴洛克時期)to Neoclassicism(新古典主義), Romanticism(浪漫主義), Realism(寫實主義), and Impressionism(印象派). Through her explanations, the paintings were no longer silent objects hanging on walls. They became windows through which I could see the lives, struggles, ambitions, and dreams of earlier generations.
When we looked at the works of Monet(莫內), Renoir(雷諾瓦), Degas(竇加), and other Impressionist painters, she encouraged me to step closer and then farther away. Up close, I saw separate brushstrokes and patches of colour; from a distance, they blended into sunlight, water, movement, and atmosphere. She explained that these painters were not simply recording what they saw. They were trying to capture a fleeting moment—the way light touched a building, reflected upon a river, or changed the colour of the sky.
Her knowledge of history also gave new meaning to the streets and buildings around us. As we walked through Paris, she spoke about the French monarchy, the French Revolution, Napoleon(拿破崙), and the transformation of Paris under Baron Haussmann(奧斯曼男爵). The grand boulevards, public squares, churches, bridges, and monuments gradually became parts of one continuing historical story.
At the Palace of Versailles(凡爾賽宮), she described not only the luxury of the Hall of Mirrors(鏡廳), but also the political purpose behind its splendour. Every painting, ceiling decoration, garden, and formal ceremony was designed to demonstrate the absolute authority of Louis XIV(路易十四). Her explanation helped me understand that beauty can also serve as an expression of power.
The most enjoyable moments were often the quietest ones. We could sit in front of a single painting for a long time, exchanging our impressions without worrying about the next destination. Sometimes she shared what she had learned from her research; sometimes we simply remained silent and allowed the artwork to speak to us.
Through her eyes, I learned that appreciating art does not require us to agree on a single interpretation. The important thing is to look patiently, remain curious, and allow ourselves to feel. A painting may reveal the artist’s world, but it may also awaken memories and emotions within the viewer.
My earlier visits to France were journeys of seeing. This visit became a journey of understanding. With an art-loving friend beside me, France was no longer merely a collection of famous landmarks. It became a living museum, where history, architecture, painting, sculpture, literature, and everyday life were woven together.
Once again, when the journey came to an end, I found myself thinking: I must return to France.
But this time, the desire was even stronger. The more carefully I looked, the more I realized how much remained unseen. France is not a place that can be understood in a single visit. It invites us to return again and again, each time with greater patience, deeper knowledge, and a more sensitive heart.
2005巴黎協合廣場2005巴黎塞納河
2005巴黎協合廣場
2005年的某日午後,我走進巴黎心臟深處那座如夢似幻的宮殿——巴黎歌劇院(Palais Garnier)。那一刻,世界彷彿靜止,時間化為塵埃,在金碧輝煌的長廊中悄然流轉。
拾階而上,紅絨絨的階梯如皇室的通道,緩緩引領我走入一場不屬於現代的盛宴。頭頂上,是馬克·夏卡爾(Marc Chagall)為主劇場天花板所繪的詩意圓頂——夢幻的色彩交織著音符與愛情,如天使在夜空中低語,為舞台灑下神祕的祝福。而正中央的巨型水晶吊燈垂懸而下,彷彿凝結的星河,將整座劇場照亮成天堂的一角。
這座建築不只是一座歌劇院,它是拿破崙三世皇帝授意興建、由年輕建築師夏爾·加尼葉(Charles Garnier)於1861至1875年間所設計建造的。它所代表的第二帝國風格與新巴洛克建築藝術,至今仍被譽為巴黎最華美的文化象徵之一,自1923年起更被列為法國國定歷史古蹟。
我佇立在觀眾席中,彷彿聽見歷史靈魂的回聲:瑪麗亞·卡拉絲(Maria Callas)的高音、尼金斯基(Vaslav Nijinsky)的舞步、還有那潛藏在傳說裡的幽靈氣息——《歌劇魅影》的低吟,似乎仍迴盪於紅金交織的帷幕間。每一個座位、每一面鏡子、每一根柱廊,都在低語,訴說著百年的藝術光輝與榮辱變幻。
走出歌劇院時,陽光正灑落在劇院頂端的青銅天使與金葉翅膀上,彷彿整座建築仍在無聲地高唱。我回首一望,那氣勢恢宏的大門彷彿也正向我微笑,邀我再次歸來。
那一刻我明白——這不只是一趟旅行,而是一場與「藝術、建築與靈魂」共鳴的朝聖之旅。
2015年,我與一位酷愛藝術與文學的密友,共度多日巴黎時光。每一步踏入這座文明的殿堂,都像是穿梭在歷史與想像的交界。我們縈繞在羅浮宮的長廊與穹頂之下,呼吸間仿佛能嗅到油彩與石材的氣息,心靈被光影、色彩與雕塑的力量輕輕喚醒。
我們駐足於蒙娜麗莎面前,凝視那抹神秘的微笑,心中不禁回想文學裡描寫的千百種情感。接著,我們流連在薩莫色雷斯的勝利女神前,感受大理石肌理的動感與力量,彷彿戰船正在波濤洶湧的海面上乘風破浪。
密友對雕塑情有獨鍾,我們在米洛的維納斯前停留良久,白色大理石散發著古典之美,優雅而含蓄,像是一首沒有文字的詩。米開朗基羅的聖母與子、卡諾瓦的心理雕像也讓我們流連忘返,每一曲線、每一次呼吸,都像在與歷史對話。
我們還漫步於畫廊之中,烏爾比諾的維納斯、德拉克洛瓦的自由引導人民、傑拉爾的拿破崙加冕典禮吸引,畫布上的光與影、筆觸的張力,令我們忘卻時間的流轉。
而在古埃及與古希臘展廳,我們驚嘆於雕刻精細的法老石棺、雕像與浮雕,每一件作品都承載著千年的故事。密友低聲談論文學與藝術如何交織,而我則用眼睛與心靈去感受這無言的詩篇。
羅浮宮不只是博物館,它像是一座盛放文明的花園。與密友同行,我們像兩片心靈葉子,在藝術的光影中輕輕搖曳,拾起歷史與創造的微光,記錄下那段巴黎的永恆時光。
走進奧賽美術館,首先映入眼簾的是由舊火車站改建而成的宏偉空間。高聳的拱形天窗灑下柔和光線,映照在木質樓梯與大理石地面上,光影在空間裡緩緩流動,每一步都像踏在時間的脈搏上。空氣中彷彿瀰漫著油彩與歲月的香氣,讓心神為之舒展。
我與酷愛藝術與文學的好友並肩而行,目光常常不約而同地停留在同一幅畫作或雕塑前。我們在印象派畫廊中互相低語,莫內的睡蓮在我們眼前微微搖曳,筆觸中的光影似乎能映照出彼此心中的感受。雷諾瓦的舞會畫布前,我們都被畫中的熱鬧色彩吸引,彼此交換對於光線與氣氛的觀察,心靈不言而喻地契合。
德加的芭蕾舞者雕像前,我們一起凝視每一個細微的姿態,仿佛能聽見舞者呼吸的節奏。每一次停留、每一次交換眼神,都像在分享一段只有我們彼此懂得的藝術語言。後印象派展廳裡,梵谷的星夜和自畫像激起我們內心的悸動,我們相視一笑,仿佛彼此都讀懂了畫中那份孤獨與熱烈。
漫步至塞尚的靜物與卡耶博特的巴黎街景,我們彼此指點光影的變化,討論色彩的情感張力。每一件作品都成了我們心靈交流的媒介,彼此的感受在畫作之間流動,心心相印。
奧賽的雕塑收藏亦令人陶醉,德加的舞者雕像在光影下柔美生動,我們同時讚歎,心中默契不言而喻。每一件作品都是時間的切片,而我們在其中共享感動,像是在光影中編織無聲的詩篇。
奧賽美術館不只是收藏藝術的殿堂,更是一座心靈共鳴的時光之館。光線穿梭於空間,畫作與雕塑在眼前呼吸,我們的心隨著色彩與線條起伏,彼此分享每一次微小感動,仿佛融入畫中的光影,與藝術、歷史和彼此同在。