寧夏--西夏王國Ningxia--Kingdom of Xixia
西安》蘭州》中衛(沙玻頭,沙湖,南長灘村,大佛寺)》銀川》石嘴山》賀蘭山(騰格里沙漠月亮湖)》海寶文化園》寧夏風情園》鎮北堡》黑水城遺址》銀川》阿拉善盟(丹巴吉林沙漠世界第一高的沙峰,橫渡騰格里沙漠)》張掖(張掖市甘州區西夏國寺)》武威》西安
踏破賀蘭山缺——緬懷西夏王國的絲路遺夢
從古都西安出發,我踏上這趟追尋西夏王國足跡的旅程。西夏(1038-1227),党項族建立的王朝,曾雄踞西北,與宋、遼、金分庭抗禮,創造出獨特的文字、佛教藝術與邊塞文明,卻在蒙古鐵蹄下灰飛煙滅,只留下賀蘭山下的神秘陵墓與沙漠中的殘垣斷壁。岳飛在滿江紅中慷慨高歌:駕長車,踏破賀蘭山缺。壯志飢餐胡虜肉,笑談渴飲匈奴血。這句詞雖是南宋抗金之志,卻讓我每次望向賀蘭山,都不由得心生激蕩——千年後,我駕車穿梭大漠,不為征戰,只為緬懷那段被歷史遺忘的輝煌與蒼涼。
西安到蘭州到中衛:黃河與沙漠的初遇
從西安啟程,經蘭州一路向西北,黃河水聲漸響。抵達中衛,首先拜訪沙坡頭。這裡是騰格里沙漠與黃河交匯的奇觀,浩瀚黃沙如金浪翻滾,黃河如帶蜿蜒而過。我乘羊皮筏子漂流黃河,又在中國最大的天然滑沙場上呼嘯而下,感受大漠孤煙直,長河落日圓的蒼茫。王維的這句詩在此格外應景,彷彿西夏先民曾在此牧馬放羊,開墾綠洲。
接著前往沙湖,湖光與沙漠相映,蘆葦搖曳,鳥類翩飛,130多種水鳥在此棲息,宛如塞上江南的一抹柔情。南長灘村則保留了古老的黃河村落風貌,石屋土牆,回族民居錯落,村民的笑語中帶著千年不變的淳樸。村邊黃河彎道處,夕陽西下,我不由想起西夏人曾依托黃河灌溉,築起邊塞農牧基地的艱辛。
中衛大佛寺高踞台地,寺廟層層疊疊,融合佛道儒三教,香火繚繞中透出西北邊地的莊嚴。站在高處遠眺,沙漠、黃河、綠洲盡收眼底,心裡已開始為即將到來的賀蘭山與西夏遺跡而激動。
中衛到銀川到石嘴山到賀蘭山(騰格里沙漠月亮湖):踏破賀蘭山缺
進入銀川,塞上江南的綠意撲面而來。稍作休整後北上石嘴山,再轉向賀蘭山。賀蘭山如天然屏障,阻擋騰格里沙漠的風沙,護佑著寧夏平原。站在山腳,我低聲吟誦:駕長車,踏破賀蘭山缺。想像岳飛若親臨此地,是否也會為這雄山而壯懷激烈?
深入騰格里沙漠,抵達月亮湖。湖水如彎月鑲嵌沙海之中,藍天白雲倒映,駱駝隊緩緩走過,夕陽將沙丘染成金紅。這裡的寧靜讓人忘卻塵囂,也讓我更深刻感受到西夏王朝當年以賀蘭山為依託,建都興慶府(今銀川)的氣魄。
返回銀川,遊覽海寶文化園與寧夏風情園,這裡濃縮了回族、西夏、蒙古等多民族文化,歌舞、美食、民俗表演生動再現塞上風情。鎮北堡西部影城則是另一番體驗,明清古堡遺風中,紅高粱、大話西遊等經典影片的拍攝場景歷歷在目,粗獷荒涼的西北風貌,彷彿能讓人穿越回西夏邊塞的蒼茫歲月。
銀川到阿拉善盟:黑水城與丹巴吉林沙漠的孤寂
從銀川西行,進入內蒙古阿拉善盟。首先探訪黑水城遺址(又稱哈拉浩特)。這座西夏時期的重要邊鎮與軍事要塞,曾是黑水(額濟納河)下游的繁華之地,城垣殘存,佛塔孤立沙漠邊緣。城內出土過大量西夏文獻,見證了西夏與絲路的貿易與文化交融。如今黃沙掩埋了昔日榮光,只剩斷壁殘垣在風中訴說興衰。我佇立其中,感慨西夏亡國之痛——1227年成吉思汗滅夏,鐵騎踏過,這座邊城也隨之沉寂。
繼續深入丹巴吉林沙漠,這裡有世界第一高的沙峰(必魯圖峰),沙山如巨浪起伏,高度近500米,壯觀震撼。我們橫渡騰格里沙漠的一部分,駱駝隊在沙海中緩行,風聲沙沙,彷彿聽到千年馬蹄聲。夜晚紮營,星空璀璨,沙漠的孤寂與廣袤,讓人不由得想起西夏王朝地方萬餘里的昔日疆域,如今只剩大漠黃沙。
阿拉善盟到張掖到武威到西安:西夏餘韻與歸途
離開阿拉善,東行至張掖(甘州區)。在張掖市甘州區西夏國寺,我再次感受到西夏佛教文化的深厚底蘊。西夏崇佛,國寺建築融合漢藏風格,雖歷經滄桑,仍透出當年王朝的宗教熱忱。
再南下武威(古涼州),這裡曾是西夏重要據點,涼州會盟、佛教石窟等遺跡,訴說著河西走廊的絲路故事。武威的歷史厚重,讓這趟旅程的西夏主題更加完整。
最後返回西安,結束這趟近乎環形的西北之旅。從古都出發,又回到古都,彷彿完成了一次歷史的輪迴。
旅程感悟
這趟旅行,我不止是看風景,更是追尋一段被遺忘的王朝記憶。西夏雖無正史詳載,卻在賀蘭山陵(被譽為東方金字塔)、黑水城、沙漠綠洲中留下痕跡。明人詩云:賀蘭山下古塚稠,高下有如浮水漚。那些巍然土冢,靜靜守護著黨項先民的秘密。
踏破賀蘭山缺不再只是岳飛的壯志,對我而言,它成了穿越時空的邀約——駕車穿越大漠,踏過歷史的缺口,去觸摸那段多元、神秘、堅韌的西夏歲月。
如果你也想來一趟這樣的懷古之旅,建議春夏秋季出行,防曬、防風沙,帶上好心情與一顆敬畏歷史的心。西夏雖逝,其魂猶在賀蘭山與大漠之間,等待每一位旅人去傾聽。前往沙湖,湖光與沙漠相映,蘆葦搖曳,鳥類翩飛,130多種水鳥在此棲息,宛如塞上江南的一抹柔情。南長灘村則保留了古老的黃河村落風貌,石屋土牆,回族民居錯落,村民的笑語中帶著千年不變的淳樸。村邊黃河彎道處,夕陽西下,我不由想起西夏人曾依托黃河灌溉,築起邊塞農牧基地的艱辛。
In the vast Tengger Desert, ride a camel in Shapotou and feel the poetic feelings written by Wang Wei。王維《使至塞上》. 單車欲問邊, 屬國過居延。 征蓬出漢塞, 歸雁入胡天。 大漠孤煙直, 長河落日圓。 蕭關逢候騎, 都護在燕然。大漠孤煙直, 長河落日圓The desert is solitary and the smoke is straight, the sun is setting on the long river.
In the 25th year of Emperor Xuanzong's Kaiyuan era 唐玄宗開元(AD 737), Wang Wei, an outstanding poet and painter, was ordered to serve as a supervisor of the imperial censor, and went to Hexi Jiedu in Liangzhou to condolence to the soldiers who had won the battle, and came to the area of Ningxia. And left behind a sing-song through the ages - the poem "Shi Zhi Si Shang".
Zhenbeibao Western Cinema鎮北堡西部影城 is located at the northern end of Xixia District, Yinchuan City, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, covering an area of 0.7 square kilometers and a building area of 500,000 square meters. Zhenbei Fort Western Studios has two ancient castles, one south and one north, named Zhenbei Fort and Zhennan Fort, both facing east. Zhenbeibao Western Cinema is characterized by primitive simplicity, roughness, desolation and folk.
The ancient site of Zhenbeibao is located in Zhenbeibao Town, Xixia District, Yinchuan City, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region. It is one of the cultural relics protection units in the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China.
張掖市甘州區西夏國寺
The Dafo Temple or Great Buddha Temple (Chinese: 大佛寺; pinyin: Dàfó Sì) is a Buddhist temple in Zhangye, Gansu, China, notable for its gigantic reclining Buddha statue made around 1100 during the Western Xia period, which is thirty-five metres long. After a restoration project in 2005–06, the Temple now attracts thousands of visitors. It has had several names over the centuries, including the "Kasyapa Buddha Temple" (迦葉如來寺), the "Bojue Temple" (寶覺寺), the "Hongren Temple" (宏仁寺), and the "Reclining Buddha Temple" (臥佛寺). The present name of "Dafo" means "Great Buddha"
騰格里沙漠月亮湖
Moon Lake, located in Alxa Left Banner, Alxa League阿拉善盟阿拉善左旗, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, is a natural lake in the Tengger Desert. Local herdsmen call it "Moon Lake" and "China Lake", because the lake looks like a crooked moon quietly telling ancient stories from the east, and it looks like a map of China from the dunes to the west, which is majestic.
野雲萬里無城郭,陰雨紛紛連大漠There are no cities under the wild clouds, and the cloudy rains have even spreaded across the big desert
The Great Wall of Ming Dynasty was built for more than 200 years from Emperor Hongwu to Emperor Wanli 洪武帝至萬曆帝in Ming Dynasty. After 20 large-scale constructions, the Great Wall was built from Jiayuguan in Gansu甘肅嘉峪關 in the west to Hushan in Liaodong遼東虎山 in the east, with a total length of 8851.8 kilometers. This is also most of the complete Great Wall seen today.
賀蘭山被毛烏蘇、烏蘭布和、騰格里等三大沙漠包圍
騰格里沙漠The Tengger Desert is located in the southwest of Alxa Left Banner of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region and the border of central Gansu Province,。It goes across the Great Wall and reaches Helan Mountain賀蘭山 in the east and Yabulai Mountain雅布賴山 in the west.
It is 240 kilometers long from north to south and 160 kilometers wide from east to west, with a total area of about 43,000 square kilometers. It is the fourth largest desert in China. It is the eastern part of the Alxa Desert, at the bottom of the Yin'e Basin銀額盆地.
The administrative division of the Tengger Desert mainly belongs to Alxa Left Banner阿拉善盟左旗, and the western and southeastern edges belong to Minqin County in Wuwei in Gansu and Zhongwei City in Ningxia武威市民勤縣和寧夏的中衞市 respectively.
The desert includes Nanjiling南吉嶺 in the north and Tengger in the south, and is habitually called Tengger Desert. There are sand dunes, lake basins, grassy beaches, mountains, residual hills and plains in the interior.
The sand dunes account for 71% of the area, mainly mobile dunes, mostly lattice dune chains 格狀沙丘鏈and crescent dune chains, with a height of 10-20 meters (33-66 feet). There are a total of 422 lake basins, half of which have accumulated water, which are residual lakes that have dried up or retreated.
橫渡賀蘭山--搭長車,踏破賀蘭山缺。壯志飢餐駱駝肉,笑談渴飲山羊血。待從頭、玩樂舊山河,朝天闕。
沙湖
沙湖遊船
On September 10, 2012, Yinchuan BRT Line 1 was officially opened. At the same time, a total of 21 branch bus lines entered the BRT platform. Citizens can transfer to the branch bus for free at the BRT station.
The operating hours of BRT Line 1 are from 6:00 to 22:00, and the fare is 1 yuan.
Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region Museum《說西夏》大夏魂斷北風烈 崢嶸湮埋賀蘭雪 雖有遺珍萬萬千 誰識嵬名可曾來?"Speaking of Western Xia" The souls of the Great Xia are broken in the fierce north wind, and the outstanding great people are buied in the snow of Helan. Although there are thousands of left treasures, who knows the names of the great people who ever visted the place?

Flavored delicacies and snacks: Snack tents and food stalls from all over the country have gathered together to become a food market of flavored snacks from all over the world, which is convenient for local tourists and tourists from other places to taste, experience and purchase.
Intangible cultural heritage skills display: 24 folk arts and crafts masters held on-site demonstrations of more than a dozen intangible cultural heritage skills such as paper-cutting, embroidery, and carving.
寧夏自治區省會銀川位於銀川或寧夏平原中部。 它被西部的賀蘭山脈的高山所遮蔽,遠離蒙古的沙漠。 黃河自西南向東北貫穿銀川。 銀川平均海拔1100米(約3608英尺)。
賀蘭山石刻的主要集中地——賀蘭山——位於賀蘭口,這是一條從西北方向穿過山脈的壯觀峽谷,這就是賀蘭口石刻公園。 賀蘭山是北方游牧民與南方定居農民的分界線。 因此,它一直是兩種生活方式的交匯地,並以在岩石上雕刻藝術的做法來慶祝。
接著前往沙湖,湖光與沙漠相映,蘆葦搖曳,鳥類翩飛,130多種水鳥在此棲息,宛如塞上江南的一抹柔情。南長灘村則保留了古老的黃河村落風貌,石屋土牆,回族民居錯落,村民的笑語中帶著千年不變的淳樸。村邊黃河彎道處,夕陽西下,我不由想起西夏人曾依托黃河灌溉,築起邊塞農牧基地的艱辛。
賀蘭山的賀蘭口有6000多幅岩畫。 大約在 3,000 到 10,000 年前。岩畫描繪了人物、動物和符號。 人物形象描繪了狩獵、放牧、犧牲、戰鬥、舞蹈和生育的場景。 動物岩畫描繪了老虎、豹子、梅花鹿、羊、牛、馬和駱駝。 符號主要是各種面具,其中最顯眼的是太陽神鵰刻。
賀蘭山蘇遊口國家公園
橫渡賀蘭山
The scenery of Helan Mountain is infinite.賀蘭山風光無限
Helan Mountain, Ningxia's "Father Mountain". Under the protection of this silent and silent mountain, people on the Yinchuan Plain are busy with the most basic life, and at the same time, they are constantly interacting with this mountain, and developing their feelings and complexes for Helan Mountain. Because of this, today's Helan Mountain has become a good place for Yinchuan people to travel, exercise, and enjoy a better life.










Nanchangtan Village南長灘村 is located in Xiangshan Township, Shapotou District沙坡頭區, Zhongwei City中衛, Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, at the junction of Ningxia and Gansu provinces. This mysterious village, although the village is small, has "three firsts in Ningxia": the first village of the Yellow River in Ningxia, the first crossing of the Yellow River in Ningxia, and the first drifting of the Yellow River in Ningxia寧夏黃河第一村、寧夏黃河第一渡、寧夏黃河第一漂. Surrounded by mountains, Nantan Village is almost isolated from the rest of the world. The people in the village are named Tuo, claiming to be descendants of Xixia, and have preserved a complete genealogy. In December 2008, it was identified as the first "National Historical and Cultural Village" in Ningxia by relevant state departments.

















































First arrive at Lanzhou, Jinchang 蘭州、金昌and other places in Gansu Province, or arrive at Alxa Left Banner 阿拉善左旗in Inner Mongolia, and then transfer to a long-distance bus to Badain Jilin Town and Yabulai Town 巴丹吉林鎮、雅布賴鎮(you can also charter a car if it is convenient, and the price is simply calculated, about approx. 1.5-2 yuan). Then set off from the town and start to play in the desert.中國第三大沙漠阿拉善盟丹巴吉林沙漠世界第一高的沙峰,海拔1609公尺的必魯圖沙峰
世界第五大戈壁沙漠支漠中國第三大沙漠阿拉善盟丹巴吉林沙漠世界第一高的沙峰,海拔1609公尺的必魯圖沙峰The sandy mountains in the Badain Jaran Desert are famous for being high, dangerous, steep and steep, and no other desert in the world can match the typicality. Sand mountains are generally between 1200 meters and 1500 meters above sea level. Among them, Bilutu Peak is the highest desert in the world because of its altitude of 1611.009 meters and a relative height of 589 meters. It is known as "Desert Everest"“沙漠珠峯”