Through a Land of Faith and Fire
穿越信仰與烽火之地
Our journey began in Tel Aviv–Yafo（特拉維夫—雅法）, where the blue Mediterranean rolled peacefully against the ancient harbour. Yet beneath the sunlight lay an unmistakable tension: Israel（以色列）and Lebanon（黎巴嫩）were at war, and news of fighting followed us northward. The sea appeared serene, but the country was listening anxiously for every distant siren and explosion.
From Tel Aviv, we travelled through Hadera（哈代拉） to Haifa（海法）, a beautiful port city climbing the slopes of Mount Carmel. The golden dome and terraced gardens of the Bahá’í Shrine（巴哈伊聖殿） shone above the harbour, seemingly untouched by the conflict. Yet Haifa was close enough to the northern front for the shadow of war to be felt. Beauty and danger stood side by side—a garden in bloom beneath a troubled sky.
We then continued to Nazareth（拿撒勒）, the childhood home of Jesus. In the Basilica of the Annunciation（聖母領報大殿）, pilgrims walked quietly beneath images of Mary contributed by nations around the world. The streets outside were crowded and noisy, but inside the church there was a deep stillness, as though two thousand years of prayer had settled upon its stones.
From Nazareth, the road climbed toward the Golan Heights（戈蘭高地）. The landscape grew broader and more severe—rocky hills, military roads, watchtowers and warning signs. Even while we were there, bombardment could still be heard in the distance. Each dull explosion rolled across the plateau like thunder, reminding us that the borders on a map were living wounds on the earth.
Standing upon the Golan Heights, I felt how fragile peace could be. The wind swept freely across the land, indifferent to flags and frontiers, while human beings continued to struggle over every ridge and valley. The scenery was magnificent, yet the beauty carried an uneasy silence.
Descending from the heights, we reached the Sea of Galilee（加利利海）. Its waters were calm and luminous, surrounded by hills associated with the life and teachings of Jesus. Here, according to the Gospels, he called his disciples, calmed the storm and walked upon the water. After the sounds of war, the lake appeared almost miraculous—a quiet blue sanctuary held between sky and earth.
We followed Highway 90 southward through the Jordan Valley. The road ran beside fields, desert hills and military checkpoints, carrying us gradually toward the Palestinian territories（巴勒斯坦地區）. Entering this land was like crossing an invisible boundary between different histories, memories and sorrows.
At Nablus（納布盧斯／那不勒斯）, surrounded by the mountains of Ebal（以巴路山） and Gerizim（基利心山）, the atmosphere was entirely different. Markets overflowed with spices, fruit, bread and the fragrance of freshly made knafeh（庫納法乳酪甜點）. Yet armed checkpoints and guarded roads revealed the difficult realities of Palestinian life.
Nablus is one of the oldest cities in the region, traditionally associated with ancient Shechem（示劍）. Its narrow lanes seemed to preserve layer upon layer of history—Canaanite, Israelite, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic and Ottoman. Here, history was not enclosed in museums; it lived in the stones, the faces and the daily endurance of the people.
We continued to Jericho（耶利哥）, often described as one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. It lay far below sea level, warm and fertile amid the desert. Palm trees rose beside ancient ruins, and the nearby Mount of Temptation（試探山） stood above the plain. Jericho felt like an oasis not only of water, but also of human memory.
Then came Jerusalem（耶路撒冷）, the spiritual heart of three great faiths. Within the walls of the Old City（舊城）, church bells, the Muslim call to prayer and Jewish prayers seemed to rise into the same sky. We walked through the Christian, Muslim, Jewish and Armenian quarters, where every street carried centuries of devotion and conflict.
At the Western Wall（西牆／哭牆）, people pressed written prayers into the cracks between the ancient stones. At the Church of the Holy Sepulchre（聖墓教堂）, pilgrims knelt at places associated with the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus. Above them stood the sacred plateau known to Muslims as Al-Haram al-Sharif（尊貴禁地）, with the brilliant golden Dome of the Rock（圓頂清真寺）.
Jerusalem was radiant, solemn and deeply divided. Nowhere else had I felt so clearly that faith could console humanity, yet also become entangled with power, territory and bloodshed. The city seemed to carry both heaven and history upon its shoulders.
From Jerusalem we travelled south to Hebron（希伯倫）, another city sacred to both Jews and Muslims. The Cave of the Patriarchs（列祖之墓／易卜拉欣清真寺） is traditionally believed to contain the tombs of Abraham, Sarah, Isaac, Rebecca, Jacob and Leah. Yet Hebron was heavily guarded, divided by barriers, checkpoints and opposing communities. The silence along certain streets was more disturbing than noise.
We then entered the wilderness and descended toward Ein Gedi（恩戈地）, an oasis beside the Dead Sea（死海）. Springs flowed through the dry cliffs, nourishing green plants and wildlife in the midst of bare desert. According to biblical tradition, David once hid in these caves while fleeing from King Saul.
The Dead Sea（死海）, lying at the lowest exposed point on earth, glittered beneath the fierce sun. Its mineral-rich water held the body effortlessly on the surface. Behind us rose the Judean Desert; before us, across the water, lay the mountains of Jordan. The silence was immense, ancient and almost otherworldly.
Returning once more through Jericho（耶利哥）, we crossed the Jordan Valley and continued toward Amman（安曼）, the capital of Jordan. White and cream-coloured buildings covered its hills, while the remains of the Amman Citadel（安曼城堡山） and the Roman Theatre recalled the city’s ancient past as Philadelphia（費拉德爾菲亞）.
Our route had carried us from the Mediterranean coast into Galilee, across the Golan Heights, through Palestinian cities and biblical wilderness, and finally beyond the Jordan River:
Golan Heights（戈蘭高地） → Sea of Galilee（加利利海） → Highway 90（九十號公路） → Nablus（納布盧斯，巴勒斯坦） → Jericho（耶利哥） → Jerusalem（耶路撒冷） → Hebron（希伯倫） → Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea（恩戈地與死海） → Jericho（耶利哥） → Amman（安曼）el Aviv–Yafo（特拉維夫—雅法） → Hadera（哈代拉） → Haifa（海法） → Nazareth（拿撒勒） →
It was not an ordinary sightseeing journey. We travelled through a land where biblical stories, ancient empires and modern conflicts occupied the same narrow strip of earth. We saw the serenity of the Sea of Galilee and heard the distant bombing on the Golan Heights; we entered Palestinian territory and passed through checkpoints where history remained painfully alive.
What stayed with me most was the contrast: sacred churches and military barriers, desert silence and artillery fire, ancient prayers and modern grievances. Yet amid war and division, ordinary people continued to sell bread, raise children, welcome strangers and pray for peace.
The journey taught me that this Holy Land was not merely a place of monuments. It was a living landscape of faith and suffering—a land beautiful beyond words, burdened by history, and still waiting for the day when its many peoples might walk beneath the same peaceful sky.
Analytical data:
Alcohol 15.0 %
Acid (g / L) 5.9
pH 3.59
RS Dry
